"Georgia on my mind.............."

We started out in fog....and, it seemed fitting for a visit to the "Little Whitehouse". This was the cottage retreat beloved by FDR in his untiring efforts to deal with the effects of polio which had crippled his legs. He began visiting Warm Springs in 1924....and, died there in 1945. His circle of confidantes had helped him hide the ravages of his disease whenever he appeared in public....but here, he could enjoy the warm waters and take the physical therapy. He was an engaging person and enjoyed the familiarity with the locals. One outcome that was his intense interest in getting affordable electricity to rural communities and farm lands. This he accomplished as well as restoring America's belief in America, and, bringing the working country back to hope and life. The Great Depression had taken its toll. His vision and creative problem-solving were "just right" for the times. The ordinary folks loved him....and, I believe he loved them too. He did not live to see the War end...but he was very much a part of the victory. A much-respected world leader. (Can't say the same for our current President.) They lived simply and modestly. More so than one would expect of a sitting President and a man of personal wealth.He loved to drive through the countryside and designed and apparatus that let him control the car with his hands and arms. Quite a remarkable man! Isn't it interesting that we are watching "The War" at night.

The fog lifted and the mood did too. We spent the rest of the day at Callaway Gardens. What an amazing place! I have no idea how many acres are part of this property. There is a maze of forests, lakes, roads, facilities, hiking and biking trails. It goes on and on FOREVER. You begin at the Discovery Building with an orientation film explaining the philosophy of the Callaway family. They made big money in textiles, but had enormous respect and commitment to the preservation and pleasures of nature. Through the years, much has been created to frame what God and nature provide. It is a dynamic learning center for people of all ages and abilities. We went to a wonderful outdoor demonstration of the "Birds of Prey". The naturalist was gifted....both with the birds and with her ability to teach us about their unique behaviors. They are wonderous and also dangerous by nature. She worked with a red-tailed hawk, a horned owl (they really don't have horns), and, an American bald head eagle. It was breath-taking to have them swoop literally inches above YOUR head! Our next stop was the extensive Sibley Horticulture Building which is a conservatory arranged by "climate" as well as outdoors. I had figured September would be a big yawn.....was I ever wrong! We took SO MANY photos that it is embarassing. Many things were in bloom, others had exotic foliage. There were great topiaries and water features. The resident Koi had a feeding frenzy when Tom tossed in a bit of their feed. From my "Green Scene" days, I can identify quite a few warm climate plants....but, it boggled my mind. Next we decided to do the "scenic drive". WOW! This is no 15-20 minute buzz. It takes a long time and the undeveloped lands are just as lovely as the formally designed gardens. We then went to the Day Butterfly Pavillion. First we saw some coming out of their crysallis, and, then we went into the enclosed garden. So many colors, so many sizes....they were EVERYWHERE. In fact, you had to be careful not to step on one. It was very whimsical. One guy had a butterfly land on his shirt when he came into the garden. It stayed on him all of the time that he was there. Unfortunately, his little girl didn't like it. Go figure!

Well, we literally closed the place...and then went to dinner. Tired and very pleased with a great day!

"On the road"............again!

WOW! This "pack-unpack, sleep here-sleep there" is getting a bit monotonous. We have seen SO MUCH and learned SO MUCH! Things are beginning to wind down....probably home on Friday. We left Montgomery, but snapped a few pix on the way out of town. Together we are approaching 1000 shots. There will be some big time editing in the home stretch. I look forward to doing a scrapbook....but it takes a LOT of time. I kid Tom and tell him that this is how we will travel in our rocking chairs. It may be more truth than humor!

We headed East sans Interstate efficiency. It is a shame to travel by car and not SEE the countryside....even if it is trees and fields and houses from humble to extraordinary. We went to Tuskegee. I knew of the University but did not know that there was a town. Duh. It is a large, lovely, modern campus of brick buildings. We were in search of the Carver Museum. It delivered big time. Two films....one on the life of George Washington Carver, and, one on Booker T. Washington. Both were born into slavery and overcame incredible odds to become learned and respected men. George Washington Carver really had no middle name. He ALWAYS signed "George W. Carver" (Carver being the name of the man who had owned him). In adulthood, someone pressed for a name to fill out the "W". He just randomly selected "Washington".... and never used it again. He was very smart and insatiably curious. He was first trained as an artist, then in agriculture. His curiosity pulled him into endless discovery and study of plant life....particularly peanuts and sweet potatoes. He lived until 1943 and never married. Booker T. Washington recruited him to HIS faculty at Tuskegee Institute. Carver was a valuable and distinguished addition to the young college. Booker T. Washington was a founder and administrator. He tirelessly connected to wealthy sponsors in the North, securing funds to create the campus. He had a deep conviction that the way to help "his people" was NOT to encourage abstract scholarly pursuits, BUT to roll up your sleeves and learn how to construct buildings and run businesses. The STUDENTS built the Tuskegee Institute facilities....LITERALLY. He did marry and have a family. Booker T. Washington died in the 1920's having had both an academic and political life. They were two very remarkable men whose paths crossed here.

Soon we were in Georgia...and, a one hour advance in the clock! Back to Eastern Time. Have you seen "West Point-Stevens" on linens? Well, there IS a West Point.... in Georgia. It sits near a dam site where there is an enormous textile mill. There is an "outlet" at the factory, so we stopped there for awhile.

It is not too far from West Point to Warm Springs, a charming little town in the mountains (although not THAT high). The entrance to the world-famous Callaway Gardens is just outside of town. (We will go there tomorrow.) In-town is the Franklin D. Roosevelt "Little Whitehouse" and museum. We planned to go there today, but (with the advance of the clock) we were too late. 'Plan to include that tomorrow too.

We are staying at the local Best Western and it is quite nice. Finally got to post yesterday's blog. Cell phone service stinks, but earlier I talked to Carol who was having problems with her flight out of New Mexico. 'Hope she made it!

Getting to know ole Alabamy..........

Thank GAod for Panera! It always seems to be there for us....and we needed a better wifi setup to do the blog. Who knows why we are having all of these connection problems?? (but Tom is certain that he needs a new laptop.) Anyway, we took care of things and I talked to Jen who will sleep at Fearrington tonight so that she and the children can fly out early-early to Canada. It is Jamie's wedding weekend and Ken will join them on Friday.

We went to visit "Ole Alabama Town". There is a four-block area of the city that has been restored to the lifestyle of early America in Alabama. One block is focused on "Living" and another on "Working". We made it through "Living" before surrendering to the heat and humidity. There was a good orientation film and a guided tour. We started at the Lucas Tavern. It originally was a "trotter house"....four rooms...two on each side of an open breezeway (so that the dogs aka "trotters" could run through. Today the opening is closed in and it makes a large center hall. Lucas Tavern was built before 1818 and today is the oldest standing building in the county. By contrast to the "trotter", there are "shotgun" houses like the ones we have seen in Louisiana. These have two rooms....one is directly behind the other. There is an open space/hall from the front door to the back...so, you could fire a gun through the house from one end to the other. We went next door to the Ordeman House. A two (actually 3) story Italianate house built for himself by an architect in 1852/53. Unfortunately he fell on hard times and never lived there...it was foreclosed. There were some new features.....i.e. ground level formal and family dining rooms (cooler), closets (unusual because they were classified as "rooms" and that was used as a tax basis), a deep well (cool enough for rustic refrigeration), and, the first indoor "necessary" in the city. DON'T read that as INDOOR PLUMBING! There was a cluster of outbuildings....kitchens, slave quarters, the "necessary", and, laundry as well as stables and a carriage house. The first family that lived there had a plantation in the country. They found the "town house" to be helpful for entertaining and vacationing. We "learned" all that we could absorb. Docents are very detailed (aka long-winded). It was a relief to hop on the trolley that goes around the city to let you see the many attractions. It is FREE from 11-2 (the lunch time), and, an exorbitant $.50 at other times. You can get on/off just about anywhere and there is a narration during the "paying" times. We got off at the State Capital Building. It sits on a hill surrounded by beautiful white marble/granite state government buildings. We learned that Alabama was first a territory and became a member of the Union in 1819. Montgomery became the capital in 1846. The founding father, Andrew Dexter, had the foresight to set aside land for a statehouse "someday". It was known (and still is) as "Goat Hill"...for its occupants at that time. The current building was erected in 1850/51. The seceding states organized the Confederate States of America here in 1861. It is classical in design and later additions are a perfect blend in architecture. The stained glass dome is more than 3 stories above the rotunda and "framed" by large, beautiful murals depicting the state's history. The chambers formerly used by the state House, Senate, and, Supreme Court are all refurbished and impressive. There is a marker on the exact spot where Jefferson Davis was inaugurated. At one end of the grounds is a massive monument to the Confederacy. (You did know that "we" are one Yankee and one Rebel?!) Nearby are other important attractions i.e. first Whitehouse of the Confederacy (later moved to Richmond, VA), and the church pastored by Dr. Martin Luther King.

All of this was very draining....and, the heat and humidity finished us off. We folded and took the trolley back to where we had parked in Old Alabama Town. We know there is much more to see........but..........

Poked around in the shoppes...visited a Pecan Store (sampled and bought). The chocolae covered pecans just dripped in the heat of the car. We found a Fresh Market and gathered "supper" (with wine!) and headed for the comfort of air conditioning and a pick up supper in comfort. Tomorrow we will be on our way again!

Montgomery, AL.....a city with many faces

Sunday morning. We have been "on the road" for 3 weeks.....getting a little antsy for "home". In this part of the country, Sunday morning revolves around church.... and nothing else opens or moves. In fact, many public attractions do not open at all (and I think that the rest all close on Monday).

We left Birmingham under grey, drizzly skies and hit Interstate 65 enroute to Montgomery. South of Birmingham is an interesting place called "The American Village" which is outside the village of Montevallo. We knew (from the AAA book) that it was closed.....but being a bit crazy, we went anyway. Well! Somebody forgot to close the gate, so we drove in and took lots of pictures. No costumed guides (and no tourists). They have an exact replica of the Liberty Bell and many full-sized buildings including a church. It is fully landscaped and meant to reflect American villages of the 19th and 20th centuries. This worked out okay for us!

If you don't dilly-dally, it would take about 1 1/2 hours to drive from Birmingham to Montgomery. We took longer. Our first stop in Montgomery was the Visitor Center which is located in a beautifuly old railroad station. Some of the stained glass windows and the intricately inlaid floor, date back to the original construction in 1898. The woman there was very helpful and she gave us good maps too.

We headed first to the Oakwood Cemetery to visit the Hank Williams Memorial. (I told you that Tom is "a good ole boy".) He has been immortalized in Montgomery and is much loved here. Dying at the age of 29 (in January 1953), he left a huge musical legacy and many a tale of his shenanigans. He and his wife are buried at the Memorial and there is a life-size bronze statue of him outside the Civic Center where 28,000 mourners marked his passing. There is a museum documenting his musical history and including the actual blue Cadillac in which he died (heart attack in the back seat).

The other "attraction" open today was a fledgling museum honoring F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald. Both were popular authors in the 1920's and 30's ("Great Gatsby", etc.). He produced more novels and she was also an artist of some acclaim. They produced one daughter named "Scotty". They had lived life on the fast-track in the Jazz Age. Extravagance, alcoholism, and mental illness.... all contributed to their decline. They lived in many places but this place was their home for less than a year 1932/33. Sometimes, greatness walks a tightrope with personal disaster in the abyss on all sides.

We needed to find Maxwell Air Force Base and our new "home...for a couple of days". Accommodations look like barracks from the outside, but we have a cozy studio apartment .....for a ridiculously low cost. We ventured out for dinner (which was harder to do than we had expected). Near the end of dinner.....the skies opened up and the deluge fell! What a mess. We were glad to come "home" and watch Ken Burns' "The War" on television.

"Sweet Home Alabama"

Before leaving Meridian, we wanted to visit the "Jimmie Rogers Memorial and Museum". This was his home town. You know, Tom will always be a country boy at heart, and, Jimmie Rogers is considered to be "the father of country music". It is a small, modest museum located in a lovely city park. It was obviously created with love and care by his friends and fans. He was a real "down home" kind of guy....had been a railroad brakeman (as had my grandfather). "His" railroad engine and one car stood outside the building (in the rain). The day really wasn't nice enough to enjoy the park although the resident ducks were elated! We did a quick peek at the Dentzel carousel which was built in 1896, and today is the oldest existing two-row, stationary menagerie carousel.

In no time, we crossed into Alabama. We had addressed a dilemma....we had no reservation for tonight (as we had expected to be in New Orleans for 2-3 nights)....so where would we hang our hats tonight??? Why not go to Birmingham? Yeah. Why not?!

On the way, we went through Tuscaloosa. Our plan was to visit the "Bear" Bryant museum at the University of Alabama. HOWEVER, today is Saturday and there is a HOME game! No way are we taking on that mess of traffic-crazy folks! It is obvious.... they take their football seriously.

On up the road to Birmingham...... We visited the Civil Rights Institute. They have done an incredible job of exhibiting the shameful history of racism in our country....from its beginning to the present. We learned a lot and were moved by the whole issue and particularly by the happenings in Alabama. About a year and a half ago we visited a similar museum in Memphis, Tennessee. They are both well done. Maybe it is because I never lived with racial tensions....but I just don't "get" the hatred and deliberate injustice. A dog is treated more humanely.

We also visited "The Vulcan"! Overlooking the city from atop Red Mountain, is the huge iron statue known as the Vulcan. It is a tribute to the Roman god of fire and inventor of metalwork. At 56 feet and 60 ton....it honors the city's iron industry. Quite a sight!

Onward to check in, edit pix, blog-blog-blog, and, eat at "The Full Moon BBQ". Did the Crimson Tide defeat the Georgia Bulldogs??????! We heard that State, Carolina, and Duke all lost their games today. Not a great season for the homefolk!

"Laissez les bons temp rouler"........almost!

A wake-up/weather-check was totally indecisive. This "system" remains elusively undefined. Well.....we ARE on a Road Trip, and, we are GOING TO NEW ORLEANS! The trip over was essentially uneventful....however, our progress on highway 90 was abruptly halted near Biloxi, Mississippi.....the bridge was GONE! Is this post-Katrina, or, progress.....we don't know. We did see telltale signs of unfinished Katrina cleanup. It is pitiful. We went over to Interstate 10 and made our way (somehow!) to the Navy Lodge in New Orleans. Lots of evidence of unaddressed destruction ....and, now it is 2+years after Katrina. Our value system seems to be in total dysfunction. So....we got there, BUT when Tom went to check in, the news was not good. Pre-storm evacuations had begun. IF the storm came, the base would be flooded...and, probably lose power. IF they lost power, the base would be closed (as in...NOBODY IN/ NOBODY OUT)...and, there is NO food service on this base. We talked it over and canceled our reservation then went off to eat the BEST muffaletta I have ever tasted! We made plans to get-the-hell out of "Dodge". Although it was very arbitrary, we decided on Meridian, Mississippi which was a couple of hundred miles away. It made a lot of "wheel" time, but we got there by suppertime. Very few photos today, a little rain, and just to tired to do a blog!

(Ooops! forgot to share the photo of Oakleigh in the last blog.

No Storm Clouds Here........Yet!

We are keeping an eye on POSSIBLE storm "Jerry". That weather system (that has raised havoc in Jacksonville and St. Augustine) is on the move! Apparantly all of the scientific highbrows have collectively NO IDEA as to what it will be or where it will go. We've heard that they might get some much-needed rain in North Carolina and we hope that it does happen. But you have to be careful what you wish for....Jacksonville got 10 1/2" rain (and they are still on the drought side of the issue). The bottom line is it MAY strengthen and it MAY move across the Gulf....or it MAY head for Mexico ....or it MAY move north and fizzle. It is in the hands of the gods ...but we will keep listening.

With this backdrop we squinted into the bright sunshine and prepared to move on toward Mobile, Alabama.....about an hour away if you "tend to business". We didn't!

As we departed, we paused to take photos of the large military cemetery at Naval Air Station/Pensicola. It is sobering. If you have a partriotic fiber in your being, you HAVE to be moved by the simplicity and message. Row upon row upon row of simple white headstones....perfectly aligned. What a deep, silent message to all....THIS IS THE HIGHEST COST OF WAR. Given today's issues in Iraq, one cannot help but think, "Is it worth it?". To me, it is not. How do you feel?

We took our old friend, route 98, most of the way to Mobile. It was less "beachy", and only occasionally did we see an affluent estate. Very few trailers/mobile homes. Just mostly common everyday places. Cotton is ready for harvest as the bolls are bursting. Did not see vegetable crops and only a few farm animals. Very little indication of industrial activity. I don't know how they make their living.

The picture changes as we approach the Mobile area. Billboards, traffic, businesses, interstates. This is a busy metropolitan area where the modern and the historical live side-by-side. We located our hotel (adjacent to the park for the battleship, USS Alabama) and had a bite to eat right next door. I noticed they were "redecorating" the room next door. One of the kitchen staff said, "Yeah. They were finally catching up with the Katrina problems.". We think of New Orleans....but they are not alone in this.

Through the tunnel and into the city. (That is how you traverse Mobile Bay.) The Welcome Center is at Fort Conde....a restored French fort which has protected Mobile since before our Revolutionary War. Today it is an historical treat. We decided to drive to the highly recommended Oakleigh Historic Complex. (We fully expected to do other sightseeing as well.)

The Oakleigh House is impressive. As you approach, it sits some distance from the road amid "live" oak trees. (I wonder what the opposite might be????) It looks like a two-story (and technically it is)but when built in 1833, it was raised up on pillars because of the weather risks. This was characteristic of the times. The house was initially quite isolated and out in the country. It is in the Greek Revival style. Much more recently, the ground level was enclosed and a dining room created. The kitchen had always been in a separate building because of concerns for fire and for the comfort of the main house in hot weather. The lavish furnishings are not authentic to the house, but are correct for the period. The docents are in period costumes and very knowledgeable. The complex includes a neighboring house which is much more modest but very nice.....simple 4-room+hall design. It is known as the Cox-Deasey Cottage. Eleven children were raised here. I have no idea where they could possibly bed them all down. There is also a complimentery, but more recent building built between the two for administrative and research purposes. I said that the docents were knowledgeable....we wore out two and suffered major TMI as they went on and on for 2 1/2 hours! It was interesting, but how much can you absorb in one day?!

Mentally fatigued, we headed for our hotel...a Best Western adjacent to the battleship/park. We needed to hook into the wifi to do the blog and we want to checkout the USS Alabama.

"Arise and Shine.......YOU are in Blue Angels' Country"

Shine??? Naw!.....I am a slow starter in the morning. It was a beautiful morning and coffee on "our" balcony overlooking the water was GREAT!

Yesterday we learned that (when in town between air shows) the Blue Angels run practice flights at 8:30am on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. TODAY is Wednesday. The museum sets up a special spectator area for the "show". Tom opted to go.....and, it was a good decision. I opted to stay at the Lodge and watch the Blue Angels over the water while attending to our clothes bobbing around at the laundromat. We BOTH saw some pretty incredible maneuvers....but his vantage was better as they "played" to that audience. Anyway you cut it, we BOTH were royally entertained AND we have clean underwear! Could you do better????

Once the clothes were folded and put away, we headed back to the Museum (like less than 1/4 mile from the Navy Lodge). Caught the noon IMAX showing of "Hurricane on the Bayou". WOW! We have been to LOTS of IMAX productions....but THIS one was perfectly timed as we are about 2 days out of New Orleans. It is produced by the Weather Channel. An outstanding presentation of the wetlands/bayou and New Orleans before-and-after Katrina. Really moving.

So, we left there and stopped for lunch at the CUBI 1 cafe/bar. Very interesting venue; very mediocre food. Every inch of wall space is covered with plaques of the many, many air squadrons that frequented the place in Subic Bay (before the volcano closed things down). Each squadron has their own icon....some serious, but generally humorous and generally it lists the squadron members (great nicknames) and years covered. Tom had been there....but not with an air squadron.

We launched a search for civilian wifi....it somehow involved discovery/stop at a bigger Navy Exchange located off the Air Station....but no wifi. En route to a Barnes and Noble (via "Naggy/Nellie") we happened on a Panera....so we finished up yesterday's blog there.

Having successfully plowed through EVERY inhabitant of Pensacola as they commuted home from work....we found our way back to the Navy Lodge. It was about time for sunset. We decided to take photos and walked toward the beach....but, as I looked up the lighthouse was silhouetted against the setting sun. Now THERE was a photo op! We took many photos as we walked closer IN SPITE OF BEING EATEN ALIVE BY BLACK FLIES! (They just sit on you and chew....awful!) When we got back, Tom loaded the pix into the computer. His were better than mine....but you will have to take my word for it as something went afoul and all of his vanished. Unfortunately he had cleared his camera...so you have to look at mine. However, minutes later, I looked out beyond the balcony to see a glorious pink/blue show in the sky with a glowing white moon! He captured this, and, we hope to share it with all of you when we find a wifi to get this blog on its way.

Along the road to..........Pensacola

No big rush....we don't have to go but about a 100 miles or so from Panama City Beach to Pensacola. The beach route is highway 98 (an old friend!). This area is more populated than the "forgotten beaches" but not really dense. The Gulf is "out there" to our left....but we don't see it for long stretches. The houses seem quite modest and year-round (as opposed to seasonal). Most houses have roofs that are pyramid-like (4 equilateral triangles joined at the top). Why? Best guess here is this forms no recessed peaks to make force pockets for hurricane winds to begin destruction. Do you have a better idea?

Things got more "touristy/beachy" around Destin and Fort Walton. This might be an interesting area to check out the military condo-rental opportunities at some time in the future. It seems like we just don't see buildings anywhere that appear to be more than 40 (or so) years old. Signs of new construction are common. Now Pensacola does seem older. Getting to the Naval Station took awhile but it was worth it as it sits beautifully on the Gulf. We have a great view from our balcony and an even better one from the Lighthouse Restaurant which is next door and literally sits on the beach. Nice place to eat too.

A "biggy" on the agenda was a visit to the National Naval Aviation Museum which is very near to the Navy Lodge. Our guide, Jim Veasey, was excellent. As a retired aviator, he laced his usual narration with lots of fantastic add-on stories. 'Don't think we would have really "seen" a lot of the exhibits without someone to point out the significance of the different airplanes. These are NOT miniatures. Some are replicas and some are renovated "real things". Naval Aviation goes back to 1911....and we have come a long way "baby"!

The musuem is FREE because it sits within the Navy base. The building and exhibits were all paid for with private donations. The guides are all volunteers...usually retired aviators. The food concession is a completely renovated and reassembled facility from the Subic Bay, Phillipine Islands area....known then as now as CUBI 1.
There (of course) is a gift shoppe. Those two parts of the facility plus the IMAX theatre are the financial support of the facility for continuing work and maintenance. It is educational and patriotic.....strongly recommended. By the way, Pensacola has been the home of the World-famous flying "Blue Angels" since 1946. One of Jim Velase's stories: the guys had not come up with a "handle" and they were in New York City for whatever reason. 'Rounded the corner and there was a bar "The Blue Angel"! It became their name.

Very near the Navy Lodge are the remnants of Fort Barrancus which goes back to Spanish times....1797. Construction of the Navy Yard began in 1826 and its mission was largely related to problems of piracy and slave trade. It was quite demolished by retreating Confederates after the Union forces took New Orleans in 1862. Following "the War", it was revitalized as a Navy Yard and then it once again was allowed to deteriorate. Since 1911 it has been renewed and built to today's modern facility for training naval aviators i.e. Wally Schirra, Alan Shepard, Scott Carpenter and John Glenn. Ring any bells???? It is all quite amazing.

Much to our surprise, the Lighthouse Restaurant next door (on the beach) does NOT serve dinner.....although it has a priceless view of the beach at sunset! Consequently, we had a really weird meal in the room aka "suite". It has the world's tiniest kitchen and NO equipment. Yuk!

South to the "Forgotten Coast"

No breakfast at LaQuinta....we have had enough of that place! Unfortunately it probably colored our memory of Tallahassee...which probably isn't fair. We did have a nice breakfast. Tom indulged me in a return to the Scrapbook Market (wanted more of something that I bought yesterday). Then a quick trip to check out the campus of Florida State....not a "Chucky" in sight!

Time to head South toward the Gulf. Thankfully we were not on interstates. Very rural. Very small villages here and there. One village that we doubt that ANY of you have seen is a little place called "Sopchoppy". God only knows why they named it that .....but I bet it is a doosie. On to the coast. If we had been any closer (on the road), we would have been in the water. Tide was out and the remaining water was very shallow. Waterfront homes were trickled along the way....predominantly modest in size. "Waterfront" in most places meant on the land-side of the road as there was no room on the Gulf side of the road. This IS the "Forgotten Coast".

The first town of any size was Apalachicola. Quaint, sea-side type. Definitely not crowded today. A fairly substantial commercial fishing fleet...some were dockside. A local recommended "Boss Oyster" for lunch. Excellent call! There must have been 30 or more oyster options on the menu. My "Rockefeller II" and Tom's "Oyster Po'Boy" were wonderful....AND the sunny day is cool enough to enjoy eating outdoors. There was some type of small red/orange butterfly in great number. An extra treat for us!

It was not far to move on to our "new" home in Panama City Beach. It runs together with Panama City and is a nice beach town. We did some exploring...got the gazillion bugs off the car at the carwash. Decided to check out "Pineapple Willie's" on the waterfront. Turned out to be in the heart of high-rise heaven. This well-established place is ONLY ground level and extends over a beautiful beach. It is built pier-style, but with a covered dining area. There was little wind/breeze, but it was very comfortable. We drank "supper" with some hearty nachos to share.... and had prime seats for a beautiful sunset. There is something really special about sunset at the water's edge. Delightful! Definitely a good move to go here instead of staying another night at Tallahassee as originally planned.

Butt "Weary"..............but thinking!

"And on the 7th day he rested"....well, not exactly in this case. Today we left Sarasota and headed for Tallahassee.....five or six hours away (plus stopping time). It is Interstate all of the way (because there is nothing special to see).

About a third of the way there, we apparently hit "Indian River" country (or citrus heaven, you might say). FINALLY, some honest-to-goodness fresh squeezed orange juice ....even got a free sample. 'Couldn't resist some Valencia oranges. Green on the outside, sweet and delicious inside. Who knew?! Also picked up Tupelo Orange Blossom honey. AND THAT WAS THE HIGHLIGHT OF THE DAY! Gee whiz!

So, I decided to start jotting down my impressions of the Florida peninsula...the panhandle may be a different story. We have been here about two weeks and traveled most of it....deliberately avoiding known haunts of alligators and snakes. The "love bug" (we expected to battle) is either somewhere else or dead.

IMPRESSIONS.............

Most people live in the areas near the extensive coastline...and, on the Atlantic side they are hell-bent on increasing the water frontage with endless canals. All of this also necessitates many, many bridges. Coastal sites are dominated by high-rise residential type buildings (usually inhabited by the rich) or time shares. The coastal city streets are wide and usually lined with businesses both chic and shabby. 'Saw very few of the Myrtle Beach-type surf shops and not many children. The lower income housing is inland as are the innumerable flea markets. Didn't see any vegetable farming ANYWHERE....so where do all of those "Florida" vegetables come from??? The east coast has even more varieties and numbers of palm trees than the Gulf coast. Landscaping and landscape nurseries are everywhere. Lots more flowers on the East Coast compared to the Gulf Coast (although they have some). The citrus groves seem to be toward the center and north parts of the peninsula. There are stories of the beef cattle and "crackers". We saw some cattle and no crackers. That is a name given to the "cowboys" several decades ago because they moved cattle by "cracking" the whip. We also passed some horse farms.

Today, as we traveled the endless ribbon of concrete, we were keenly aware of the sameness on all sides. Very flat with a fair amount of trees/undergrowth and no indicators of drought like we experience in North Carolina. We saw lots of classy Winnebago-type motor homes headed South. It seems a bit early for snowbirds.... but maybe the transition has started. We do know that it is easy to get lodging, restaurant seating, admissions, etc. during the month of September...and, also that some very interesting places have closed for the month because there are so few tourists.

Our weather experience, so far, has been consistent....hot, humid, sunny days with thunder clouds threatening in the late afternoons.

The fresh seafood is fantastic pretty much everywhere.

Do YOU get the picture?????????

Right now we are at the LaQuinta in Tallahassee and thinking of moving on tomorrow. I would not recommend this place....it is in need of a major update. The location isn't bad. 'Even an excellent Scrapbook store nearby!

Ca` d'Zan

'Enjoyed breakfast at ye ole Spring Hill....it was more than one would expect for a "continental breakfast". Another beautiful day (but the clouds will roll in later--you can "take it to the bank").

Today's focus is the Art Museum and estate of John and Mable Ringling. It is VERY near this hotel. We planned to open the place at 10am....and we were NOT alone! The grounds are huge but they offer a tram service between the venues so it's not so bad. (It would be a killer to walk it in this heat.)

We started with a visit to the Circus Museum's Tibbals Learning Center. Following the short orientation film, we enjoyed the enormous miniature display....it is AMAZING! Master model builder, Howard Tibbals, created this over a period of 50 years. He called the project the "Howard Circus Model" but it is a composite of The Ringling Brothers (originally there were 5) and Barnum and Bailey Circus from 1919 to 1938. Everything is there...from the arrival by railcars to the 8 tents, 152 wagons, 1300 perfomers and staff, 800+ animals and a 59 car train. Tons of the human figures (covering both ends of the performances) as well as the "back story". Buildings in the mythical town, equipment (right down to the dishwashing process) and, of course, the Midway. They even baked their own bread....40 cooks/ 3 meals a day/ almost 1500 people to be fed....AND a portable facility....NO SMALL PROJECT! The display is big but the concept is HUGE! We did not get to the second floor but Tom went back later (while I shopped!).

Next stop was the Art Museum. To say John Ringling was a collector....doesn't even come close to the reality. He must have searched widely in Western Europe for this wonderful artwork. Superior paintings....some of gigantic size like "The Four Evangelists" by Reubens. He loved the Renaissance and the Baroque style. He especially liked art from Italy.....but he did not limit himself to that. The building was lavishly designed and built for the collection. It opened in 1931. In the center of the museum is an Italian-style formal courtyard complete with a large sculpture garden. It is crowned with the dominating prescence of Michaelangelo's 'David'....an exact duplicate of the one in Florence, Italy. The collection is worth MILLIONS. Our guide was very informative....and we were really tutored as no one else was in this tour group.

Next thing on the agenda is a tram over to "C` d'Zan"....translation from an old Venetian dialect: "house of John". The record indicates that it was REALLY her house. Mrs. Ringling was involved in every aspect of the designing and decorating of this very elaborate "winter home". The architect was Dwight James Baum of New York City. It was completed in 1926 and was the center of local (and not-so-local) cultural and social life. Many decoratives were purchased at New York auctions and even more distant places. The waterfront location and loggias opening to the sea, created wonderful entertaining options. Life here was quite formal....far different than their contemporaries, the Edisons and the Fords....but, more like Mr. Flagler's place in Palm Beach. It was the height of the Gilded Age which crashed with the stock market in 1929. Unfortunately, Mrs. Ringling only lived 3 years to enjoy all of this...dying in her early 50's. John grieved at length. He entered a disasterous second marriage, had a stroke, lost his fortunes, divorced and died in 1936....with $311 in his bank account. This was just 5 days before all of his remaining assets were scheduled to be seized in Court. Lucky, lucky heirs! There were no children. He left the entire estate (Museums and Theatre included)to "the people of Florida". It has been controlled by Florida State University since 2000. WHAT A GUY!

Time for lunch! We ate at the museum cafe, Treviso. It was terrific! Very lovely presentation and mucho ambience.

Tom went back to see more of the two Circus Museums while moi squandered the family fortunes in the museum store! We polished it all off by viewing a biographical film of the Ringlings and a short documentary about the 1798 Asolo Theatre (where we sat)which had been created in memory of the 15th century Queen of Cyprus, Catarina Cornaro. It had undergone change and neglect, but was purchased and brought to this site in the 1950's for a remarkable restoration. It is now a lovely performing arts venue.

After ALL of this....it was too late to go to the Dali Museum in St. Petersburg. Maybe tomorrow on the way out of town. Ooooops! Tomorrow is Sunday. The Museum does not open until noon. We will be long-gone by then. Too bad for us.